WHENEVER I BITE into one of Sonoratown’s tortillas, my brain flickers on like the downtown skyline at dusk. I flash on the near-impossible thinness of an expert dumpling wrapper and the elusive mastery of pie crusts that are at once flaky and buttery. Never do I forget that this is a union of Sonoran wheat and pork lard, cranked out by master tortillera Julia Guerrero, in a style Teodoro Díaz Rodriguez Jr. learned growing up in San Luis Río Colorado, Mexico. Nearly translucent and handsomely pocked from the griddle, it is the flour tortilla against which to judge all others in Los Angeles. Savor it in the guise of a taco, quesadilla, caramelo, chimichanga — or, best of all, as the famous Burrito 2.0, swollen with pinto beans, mashed guacamole, Monterey Jack and sharply spicy chiltepin salsa. The meat of choice is costilla — a mix of boneless short rib and chuck robed in mesquite smoke. Go for the option to add poblano.

Díaz Rodriguez and partner Jennifer Feltham rose to national prominence at the taqueria they opened in 2016 in DTLA’s Fashion District. This year we gained a second location in Mid-City. Same menu; same brilliance.

• 5610 San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles; 208 E. 8th St., Los Angeles; sonoratown.com