GILBERTO CETINA has earned kudos for his mariscos stand near the entrance of Mercado La Paloma in Historic South-Central, but I’m not sure that praise has been heard broadly or frequently enough. Nearby daytime workers, whether coming from offices or their own homes these days, know what they have in his gently spicy coctel mixto and the smoked kampachi tostada with its two-toned crunch of shattering tortilla and peanut salsa. Baja blood clams in their gory beauty are a clue to the rigor of Cetina’s sourcing. There are also warming dishes, such as sopa de mariscos, buoyant with homemade fish sausage, and octopus grilled over mesquite.

The best news? After a two-year absence Cetina has revived his weekly six-course tasting menu. Holbox’s 10-seat counter takes on the intimacy of a sushi bar as he passes out aguachile in wincingly tart citrus marinade, the better to offset the sweetness of scallops and spot prawns, and a fried taco filled with Dungeness crab and smoked yellowtail. The cost is currently $95 per person. I’ve paid twice as much in Los Angeles for meals half as revelatory.

• 3655 S. Grand Ave., #C9, Los Angeles, (213) 986-9972, holboxla.com

Langosta al mojo de ajo — wood-grilled lobster tail and steamed claw meat in a garlic-white wine-butter sauce — at Gilberto Cetina’s mariscos stand, Holbox.