Pizzeria Bianco’s Rosa and Wise Guy pies, clockwise from left, and an antipasto plate.

PIZZERIA Bianco’s arrival in Los Angeles, the first location outside Arizona, has been long in coming. Its first months in downtown’s Row DTLA complex coincided with a pizza-themed season of Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” series, which includes a moving episode about Chris Bianco. Dinner reservations went berserk, booking up for literal months, though a handful of tables have been set aside for walk-ins.

When you do finally inhale these pizzas, with their balanced restraint and structured crust, you understand why Bianco is the most revered pizzaiolo in the United States. The Wise Guy (a pie with rough hunks of fennel sausage covered in smoked mozzarella) and the Rosa (slivered red onion, Parmesan, rosemary, crushed pistachios) brought me the same heart-pounding joy as the first time I ate them in 1997, half my lifetime ago. Head chef Marco Angeles ably translates Bianco’s genius at the pizza ovens, and right now the man himself is spending much of his week in town. Keep checking for chance availability. We have a living master in our midst.

• 1320 E. 7th St., #100, Los Angeles, (213) 372-5155, pizzeriabianco.com/los-angeles