“THERE’S NO WAIT at 4 p.m.,” the Found Oyster team has lately taken to posting on Instagram with glamour shots of its namesake bivalves. The message is clear and, in my experience, true: At most any other hour of service, patience for seats (inside or along a semi-enclosed sidewalk patio) will be necessary. The 3-year-old East Hollywood seafood bar feels in essence like a neighborhood hangout, but the wit and consistency of its bicoastal dishes makes it a citywide destination. From the Pacific, count on Santa Barbara uni lacquered with wasabi and soy sauce, as well as spot prawn sashimi and Dungeness crab salad in season. The Atlantic inspires the brilliant lobster roll bathed in bisque; porky chowder; and small, crisply saline oysters, often from Maine or Massachusetts. Ask for a couple of oysters “Moscow style,” gilded with crème fraîche, vodka and a few beads of caviar. The “wedge” salad is more of a halfcircle than a sliver, with the iceberg lettuce cut to model its concentric beauty even beneath fistfuls of Stilton, bacon and popping cherry tomatoes. It’s my favorite in Los Angeles.

• 4880 Fountain Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 522-6239, foundoyster.com

Found Oyster’s wedge salad is loaded with Stilton, bacon and cherry tomatoes.