AT THE 4-year-old West Adams community beacon, chef and co-owner Keith Corbin continues to perfect the style of light-handed cooking he calls “California soul.” His lacy, crackling fried chicken has always been outstanding; it translates seamlessly into a fried chicken sandwich stacked with pickles and hot sauce mayo. It’s hard to imagine a dinner without the oxtails braised with miso and soy, served with rice to capture all the saucy goodness. Corbin employs similar flavoring techniques for his vegan gombo (an alternate spelling for gumbo that hews closer to the word for okra in several West African languages); he uses red miso, rather than roux, for rich base notes among an ensemble of seasonal vegetables.
“California Soul” is also the name of Corbin’s powerful memoir, published this year, about growing up in Watts, surviving the drug economy and finding his way in the kitchen. A highly recommended read.
• 5359 W. Adams Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 571-4999, altaadams.com
AT THE 4-year-old West Adams community beacon, chef and co-owner Keith Corbin continues to perfect the style of light-handed cooking he calls “California soul.” His lacy, crackling fried chicken has always been outstanding; it translates seamlessly into a fried chicken sandwich stacked with pickles and hot sauce mayo. It’s hard to imagine a dinner without the oxtails braised with miso and soy, served with rice to capture all the saucy goodness. Corbin employs similar flavoring techniques for his vegan gombo (an alternate spelling for gumbo that hews closer to the word for okra in several West African languages); he uses red miso, rather than roux, for rich base notes among an ensemble of seasonal vegetables.