GIVEN HOW TIME has distorted lately, it feels remarkable that Chad Colby’s solo venture — his first after a star-making turn as chef of Nancy Silverton’s meat-immersive restaurant Chi Spacca — has been open three years already. Pastas, rather than salumi or steaks, steal the focus, though the best of them incorporate the carnivore’s secrets that Colby acquired at his previous gig. I’m thinking of his take on agnolotti del plin, the pinched bundles with crimped edges that he fills with rabbit and then sauces in braising juices with a downpour of Parmigiano. And also the marvelously chunky beef cheek and veal tongue ragù he twirls among strands of pappardelle cut with a clothier’s precision. Bet on his seasonal salads — he splashed Marsala on stone fruit this summer to gorgeous effect — and the ice creams he crafts with flavors dense and intense enough to slow conversation.

The place is not inexpensive, and it resides in a nondescript strip mall on a stretch of Beverly Boulevard that doesn’t exactly stick in the brain. Point being: If you need to make last-minute reservations for a dinner that leans special occasion, this is an excellent option.

• 4653 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 510-3093, anticonuovo-la.com