QUARTER SHEETS began as a pandemic pop-up from the home that Aaron Lindell and Hannah Ziskin, both accomplished chefs, share in Glendale. He made Detroit-style pizzas — the craggy, lacy borders of his rectangular creations approached blackened without ever tasting burnt — paved with classic red-sauce-based toppings or sometimes wild but amazingly cohesive creations. She composed layer cakes bordering on otherworldly in their deliciousness.

Over the past year they slowly moved into a magnetically eccentric Echo Park space, selling takeout while building a pizza parlor that ended up looking like an early-’80s rec room, complete with both record and cassette players. Their respective specialties are now even better, and also more unpredictable in their imaginings. Maybe potatoes, pistachio pesto and cured lemon will crown a pie, or perhaps there will be a meatball sub reimagined as a pizza, or sambal goreng tingling under a veil of mozzarella. Ziskin dreams up fantasies like olive oil chiffon with tiers of bay leaf-vanilla custard, passion fruit curd and salted Chantilly. Lately there’s been an incredible butter bean salad dotted with feta. No one can guess what L.A.’s first couple of carbs will devise next, but I feel pulled to show up every week and find out.

• 1305 Portia St., Los Angeles, instagram.com/quartersheets