SOME PARTICULARS around Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson’s nearly 6-year-old restaurant can be debated. Is the rabbit for two, spread over a garden bed of perfect lettuces, overpriced at $92? I’d argue yes. Do many of us miss Kae Whalen’s deep, wild, surprisethere’s-something-for-everyone natural wine list, and the Turkish-ish breakfast platter from the Before Times when the restaurant served lunch? Big yeses. But here’s a clincher: While not being a restaurant that serves strictly plant-based meals, Kismet is the finest place I know in Los Angeles for a vegetable-focused dinner. Whenever I have vegetarian friends visiting town, we come for a feast of small plates. It might involve fried cauliflower, the florets frizzled to an ideal pecan shade, dipped in capered yogurt; the Persian crispy rice that hides in its center an egg yolk set somewhere between oozy and jammy; and seasonal wonders like squash and chevre salad heady with the musk of marjoram, or the amazing stone fruit salad dressed in a savory sort of icing made from whey and lemon balm. “This is the California dinner we dreamed about,” they say. Discussion over.

• 4648 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 409-0404, kismetla.com