ONE OF THE MOST effective tools that Lien Ta and Jonathan Whitener employ in their arsenal of talents is an element of surprise. Exhibit A: At All Day Baby, their daydream of a corner diner in Silver Lake, they found their approach to breakfast and lunch — biscuits, salads, sandwiches, righteously smoked chicken — wasn’t drawing as fervid an audience at dinnertime. Their solution? In late summer they introduced Tet-a-Tet, a Vietnamese-inspired menu interwoven with occasional Mexican flavors. Chicken liver pâté with lemongrass chile crunch and baguette circles the notion of a deconstructed banh mi; a whole fish is bathed in green curry and fish sauce coconut caramel. Oxtail stew over hominy with pickled jalapeño and salsa macha fits in seamlessly. The dishes have deservedly clicked with customers. During the day, Whitener is crushing it with his loco moco using teriyaki-glazed Spam and breakfast sausage. In an alternate universe, pastry chef Thessa Diadem has the staff and bandwidth to make her marshmallow-capped sweet potato sticky buns every weekend; in this world, keep an eye on Instagram for their infrequent appearance.

3200 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 741-0082, alldaybabyla.com, tetatetla.com


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