Breaded sea bream with chile daikon paste and toasted breadcrumbs.

KATIANNA AND JOHN John Hong met working at Mélisse in Santa Monica. After years in the fine-dining realm, the couple opened their first restaurant with a retuned philosophy; they’ve mined their personal narratives as a reclamation of their Korean American identities. So much of the cooking lands in the sweet spot of smart, surprising combinations and abject pleasure. A rippling, flaky square biscuit covered in curried gravy with ground beef and pork has been an early signature; same with the avocado and Shinko pear salad with its head-clearing hot mustard vinaigrette. The congee pot pie is incredible: Its chicken stock porridge hints of ginger and its pastry cap brings to mind crackling youtiao. Add roasted abalone to the pot pie and you have one of the city’s great new luxury dishes.

The flow of Yangban Society’s tiered Arts District space has been a work in progress. Should the restaurant and its separate upstairs market area that the Hongs call the “Super” — where customers purchase beverages separately and maybe shop for Korean snacks — eventually merge into an easier-to-navigate experience? Probably. Most significantly, the food is immediately accomplished and, in its freshness and individualism, beautifully of Los Angeles.

• 712 S. Santa Fe Ave., Los Angeles, yangbanla.com