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Sample Evil Cooks’ flan taco, above, Cena Vegan’s tacos, Smoke Queen’s barbecue or lobster from Lobsterdamus.

SMORGASBURG L.A. is the city’s great incubator of culinary talent. We convene on Sundays in Row DTLA’s back lot to plug in, to mingle, to eat our faces off. The lineup of vendors revolves continually, guided by general manager Zach Brooks’ curatorial mastermind. This year some of my favorite pop-ups and food trucks showed up regularly. Friends and I would split up, order and reconvene to share pork belly breakfast burritos from Jonathan Perez’s Macheen, lamb barbacoa flautas from Steven Orozco Torres’ Los Dorados, bundles of chicken curry and rice from Celene and Tara Carrara’s Bungkus Bagus and a couple of dessert flan tacos from Evil Cooks. And there’s so much more to try. Having a presence at Smorgasburg empowers a vital continuum. We fall in love with what we taste.

We follow these chefs beyond the market as they grow their businesses. And then we return, hungry to see who and what is happening next.

777 S. Alameda St., Los Angeles, la.smorgasburg.com

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