BESTIA TURNED 10 this year. In the decade since Ori Menashe took California-Italian cooking by the scruff and clobbered it with fermented chiles, smoked anchovies and frizzled breadcrumbs, Los Angeles and the world have changed profoundly. The restaurant has matured in pace. An early emphasis on charcuterie gave way to antipasti like scallop crudo arrayed with cured cucumbers, olives and fresh mint; the pizza crust is tangier and less doughy; and Genevieve Gergis’ tarts and other kinetic sculptures are more experimental, successfully so. Two things haven’t changed. Pastas, their flavors darting every which direction from supporting ingredients that always manage to mingle well, remain the menu’s core strength. And the concrete bunker of a dining room, housed in a converted Arts District warehouse, is as rambunctious and loud as ever.

• 2121 E. 7th Place, Los Angeles, (213) 514-5724, bestiala.com