WHEN I’M LIFTING one of Victor Villa’s queso tacos out of a takeout container, I have an inkling of how an alien god might feel plucking a landmass right out of the ocean. This thing looks like a continent; curls of cheese have seized along its borders into a craggy coastline. The blue corn tortilla, pressed to order, forms thick, soft ground for layers of grilled chopped steak or chicken leg meat with onion, cilantro, crema, flurries of cotija and a cloud of guacamole. It’s unwieldy and overwhelmingly delicious, and it’s vital to splotch the top with salsa (there are at least seven to try) to tame the richness. Villa and his crew form an efficient assembly line of tacos under tents set up outside Block Party bar in Highland Park. Ivy Queen and Megan Thee Stallion blast from the speakers. “Tacos Estilo Los Angeles” reads the motto splashed across the setup’s canopy. Indeed. In a city fueled by tacos, Villa’s maximalist style feels particularly born of this place and time.

• 5052 York Blvd., Los Angeles, instagram.com/villastacoslosangeles

A mulita with chicken leg, left, and the Villa’s Trio of tacos under clouds of guacamole.