KOUJI YAMANASHI spent several years polishing the recipe for the phenomenal fried chicken he serves at his Monterey Park pub. A cross between karaage and Southern-style gospel bird, he brines drumsticks and boneless tenders in soy, ginger and garlic before frying them in rice bran oil. The well-seasoned batter isn’t addled by too many spices; it’s all about the flaking, near-greaseless crunch. To complete the spread: yams in a not-too-sweet glaze that calls to mind barley malt syrup, collards simmered in dashi, curried corn, and yuzu lemonade or a chocolaty porter. I hope for the return of pre-pandemic dinner sets, when the kitchen fried wings and thighs as well. As the menu stands, though, a meal at one of the restaurant’s seven tables — recently available again after two years primarily focused on takeout — feels like coming home.

• 122 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park, (626) 282-9829, tokyofriedchicken.com