FIVE YEARS feels like a long time ago and also a blink. David Chang christened Majordomo in January 2018; it was the first California restaurant in the Momofuku empire, and it landed raucously amid a maze of Chinatown warehouses. Everyone wanted to be there, to add their own shouts to the booming decibels in its hangarlike space. Executive chef Jude Parra-Sickels and his team continue to keep pace with a repertoire of dishes that has taken root nicely in Los Angeles. Summer isn’t summer without the tomato and stone fruit salad splashed with nutty sherry vinaigrette. I come anytime for the fried peppers stuffed with Allan Benton’s Tennessee-style sock sausage and the boiled chicken served in two courses — poached breast made in the image of Hainan chicken rice followed by soup teeming with hand-cut noodles. The service staff is full of caring pros, and cocktails like a Vesper laced with sake vermouth kick off dinner grandly. Do I miss some of the kitchen’s outrageousness from the early days — the globs of raclette shaved over short rib braised with Asian pear and daikon, the thrill of rock crab claws presented three ways? Yes. The menu is ready for a renewed infusion of energy.

• 1725 Naud St., Los Angeles, (323) 545-4880, majordomo.la