IN THE YEAR since Kenji Tang opened his homage to the coffeehouse culture of Ipoh, his hometown in Malaysia, the eternal lines trailing out the door have yet to wane. It’s one of the few lodestars for Malaysian cuisine in Los Angeles, and the crowds attest to the care evident in Tang’s cooking. I keep returning for the mulchy beef rendang, in which minced shallots and lemongrass pierce through as both textures and flavors; and the mellow groove of the creamy chicken curry with its high note of ground coriander. Order the curry paired with nasi lemak, rice simmered in coconut milk with pandan leaves and served with a few slivers of anchovy, boiled egg and fiery sambal pulsing with belacan (dried shrimp paste). Balancing its flavors takes more work than any other dish he makes, Tang once told me. But there’s profundity in the simple things too: A cup of Malaysian-style white coffee alongside toast sandwiched with kaya (coconut jam) conveys the restaurant’s truest spirit.

• 1411 S. Garfield Ave., Suite 104, Alhambra, (626) 703-4198, ipoh-kopitiam.com

Nasi lemak — rice simmered in coconut milk — pairs well with chicken curry.