TO EXPERIENCE the fuller glories of the Persian table in L.A. — baghali pokhte (fava beans with mint and pistachio sauce), chicken and herb stew with three kinds of citrus, the range of egg dishes called kookoo — you’ll likely need an invitation to someone’s home. That, or a copy of local author Naz Deravian’s book “Bottom of the Pot” under your arm as you wander Westwood’s brimming Iranian markets. Out in the world, among the neighborhood’s many kebab houses, we have Taste of Tehran. Chef and owner Saghar Fanisalek offers a reassuring mix of dishes — marinated meats singed over flames and served with snow banks of rice, yogurt and eggplant dips as tart as they are rich — all with uncommon finesse. An ideal amount of grated onion sharpens the beef koobideh, which is expertly shaped in undulating patterns on the skewer; the chicken kabob has deeply absorbed its lemony marinade; and the tahdig — that bottom-of-the-pot rice — shatters like crystal. Fanisalek’s tiny restaurant has tables that spill out onto the sidewalk of a busy corner. In the symbiosis of the cityscape, you’ll be people-watching while passersby watch back, appraising your feast with hungry eyes.

• 1915 Westwood Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 470-0022, tasteoftehran.com