CHRISTIAN YANG and Maggie Ho’s Alhambra restaurant has been a beautiful shape shifter through the pandemic. In the last year the concentration has been on breakfast and lunch — though a new dinner service just launched — and the cooking, as ever, shows little worry over labels or provenance. Compose a morning meal of soft-scrambled eggs, hash browns, bacon and avocado, or veer toward a Japaneseinspired set meal complete with miso soup, rice, soy egg, pickles and protein options (braised tofu, grilled steak, dry-aged steelhead trout marinated in yuzu and miso) that span the food chain. Even if you order prawn ceviche and smoked fish dip for lunch, throw in a jumbo cornmeal mochi pancake for its Venn-diagram texture of soft, stretchy and crisp.

• 112 W. Main St., Alhambra, (626) 281-1035, yangskitchenla.com