THE TAIWANESE MENU at Eat Joy Food is as sprawling as the Pearl Plaza shopping center in Rowland Heights that houses the restaurant. Industry veteran Arthur Chen — who previously ran Cafe Fusion, a family-style Taiwanese restaurant in Arcadia — took over the space in October 2019. To whittle down the choices, ask the staff for direction on seafood specialties, a particular strength of the kitchen. They’ve led me to a three-cup casserole with calamari, drenched in the fragrance of basil; supremely fresh Dungeness crab sautéed with scallions and ginger; and steamed clams suspended in soft custard. I went hunting for a dish I love called o ah jian, a fantastically gooey Taipei classic of oysters, scrambled egg and gel made from sweet potato starch. The search ended happily: It was listed on the English menu as “Taiwanese street food stand oyster pan cake.”

• 18888 Labin Court, #C113, Rowland Heights, (626) 986-4155, restaurant-77425.business.site