IT’S BEEN A DECADE since Nancy Silverton’s “Italian meat restaurant” emerged from the catering and cooking-class space at the corner of Melrose and Highland avenues, though Chi Spacca still feels like the unruly younger sibling to the adjacent Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza. The 36-ounce Florentine-style bone-in New York strip, cooked exactingly to showcase the beef’s mineral tang and melting fat, costs just over $200 these days. It feeds at least three people; I don’t know of a better steak in Los Angeles. The potato, Comte and caramelized onion pie makes a superb accompaniment. I will always order the focaccia di Recco, a crackery, stretchy-cheesy flatbread with Ligurian origins that Silverton obsessed over for years to perfect. You’re most likely to see the woman herself in action for the lunchtime burger event held the first Saturday of every month. There is Silverton, flipping burgers and stacking them on sesame-crusted buns with the single-mindedness of a neurosurgeon.

• 6610 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 297-1133, chispacca.com