IN 2020, RASHIDA Holmes moved from cooking at restaurants like Botanica and Rustic Canyon to running a pop-up selling roti and other dishes of her Bajan heritage. In a town where Caribbean cuisines often go overlooked in the zeitgeist sightlines, the excellence of her cooking shows many of us what we’ve been missing. Operating on weekends from the Crafted Kitchen commissary in the Arts District, Holmes fills her tidy bundles of roti with her mom’s recipe for chicken curry, a patchwork of sweet potatoes and fried cauliflower or, best of all, soft, ropy hunks of goat meat she buys from Jimenez Family Farms. The crust of her savory patties is improbably delicate, even when bulging with green curry shrimp or shredded oxtail meat with peppers. Start a meal with smashed cucumber salad jolted by jerk seasonings. Sometimes as a special Holmes makes chana doubles — palm-sized rounds of fried bread cradling curried chickpeas with mango relish, cilantro-ginger chutney and other garnishes that pop like flashbulbs. Treat them like tacos from a sidewalk stall; doubles were never meant to wilt in takeout containers.

• 672 S. Santa Fe Ave., Los Angeles, (747) 221-9026, bridgetownroti.com