“LA DIOSA de los moles,” “mole queen,” “mother of moles”: Each of the nicknames that Rocío Camacho has earned over the years honors her command of laborious, symphonic moles. Camacho has worked in kitchens throughout the region for decades and partnered on projects in Sun Valley and Paramount, but currently she makes the restaurant she opened in Bell Gardens in 2015 her sole professional home. The menu details a dozen moles. Some are tenets; others are fantasias. Her mole Oaxaqueño, its dozens of ingredients alchemized into a substance as glossy as fresh-churned earth, is as distinctive as an autograph. From there, dabble in her moles made with pistachio and mint or cranberry and rose. When I peered through the open kitchen window at dinner to catch a glimpse of Camacho, a staffer caught on and said, “She’s here in the mornings, making moles, because all the recipes are her secrets.” I returned for chilaquiles blanketed in duskybright pipian rojo during breakfast hours a couple of days later, and there she was.

• 7891 Garfield Ave., Bell Gardens, (562) 659-7800, rociosmexicankitchen.mymobisite.us

Rocio’s mole Oaxaqueño.