AT THE CROWN-JEWEL restaurant of Baldwin Hills Crenshaw shopping plaza, John and Roni Cleveland serve cheering dishes inflected with the flavors of the American South: shrimp and grits with shrimp butter and beef bacon, jerk catfish over dirty rice, a scarf-it-down grilled cheese rich with braised oxtail meat and smoked mozzarella. For brunch? More oxtail, in the form of hash with poached eggs and mustard hollandaise, and pecanpie-inspired French toast with bourbon caramel.

Since its inception in 2011 — when founder Brad Johnson opened the restaurant with L.A. native chef Govind Armstrong leading the kitchen — part of Post & Beam’s mission has been to nurture Black culinary talent. To that end, the Clevelands regularly host Martin Draluck (formerly the restaurant’s chef de cuisine) and his Black Pot Supper Club. The event, inspired by the culinary legacy of enslaved chefs James Hemings and Hercules Posey, builds on the Hemings & Hercules dinners Draluck co-created with Brian Dunsmoor that were featured on the Netflix series “High on the Hog.” The menu might include head cheese or rabbit braised in Madeira, and the table conversations sparked by the historical dishes could be occasionally difficult and very meaningful.

• 3767 Santa Rosalia Drive, Los Angeles, (323) 299-5599, postandbeamla.com