WES AVILA never stays still. When he’s not overseeing the menu at Yucatánthemed Ka’teen at the Tommie Hollywood hotel, he’s devising the day’s out-of-leftfield specials at Angry Egret Dinette, his project in Chinatown’s Mandarin Plaza. Maybe one afternoon will bring a teetering burger that calls forth backyard barbecues; the next day he’ll pile a tostada with surf clam, halibut and uni and spackle them with salsa negra and salsa macha so the seafood is downright gritty with texture and spice. Waffles with mascarpone cream and breakfast burritos like Hey Porky’s (roasted and shredded pork shoulder with scrambled eggs, black beans, queso Oaxaca and salsa verde) are mainstays for breakfast, which is my favorite meal at Angry Egret Dinette. The shaded courtyard setting has been a draw since the darkest days of 2020; now there’s a cozy indoor dining area with floor-to-ceiling windows too.

• 970 N. Broadway, Suite 114, Los Angeles, (213) 278-0987, aedinette.com