COME TO PARK’S with a group. A meal goes by in an exhilarating blur of fellowship and meat. Make decisions easy by asking for the “Taste of Park’s” that includes five cuts of beef. Deeply marbled ggot sal, hunks of short rib, tuiles of brisket, squiggles of bulgogi and a slab of galbi the length of a forearm hit the tabletop grill in rapid sequence. A server comes and goes, turning the meats, cutting them with scissors and moving any remaining cooked bits to the side to make room for the next round. There are additions to consider. Wagyu rib-eye cap is the splurge of choice, as primal and mineral in its pleasures as any chop at the premium steakhouses around town. Maybe cold noodles, or stone pot rice, or a seafood pancake? Depends on how much room you want to leave for more meat, or how much soju you’re drinking.

Literally dozens of barbecue houses line the streets of Koreatown. By all means, visit Soot Bull Jeep for the smokiest charcoal-fueled experience; Sun Ha Jang for the duck variations; and one of the latest top-dollar entrants for dry-aged beef. But for overall quality and hospitality, Jenee Kim’s operation is still the place to be.

• 955 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 380-1717, parksbbq.com