A lunchtime line can stretch out the door of the Mercado La Paloma in Historic South-Central. What are all these people queued up for? They’re here to order at the counter of the stylishly angled marisquería where Gilberto Cetina approaches citrus-blasted, chile-ignited seafood with singular soul and finesse. Holbox, The Times’ 2023 Restaurant of the Year, is one of the city’s most significant dining destinations: affordable, relentlessly creative, an only-in-L.A. expression of third-culture cooking. I will urge you toward the smoked kanpachi taco; Cetina and his team smoke the heads and collars of the fish over applewood while simmering the separated meat with aromatics to create a deliciously filigreed and collagen-rich spread. The mixture gushes from its griddled tortilla, sealed with queso Chihuahua, garnished with salsa cruda and avocado and drizzled with peanut salsa macha. Baja scallop aguachile swirling in limeserrano-cilantro marinade, tostadas heavy with uni and kanpachi and a bisque-like seafood stew showcasing delicate fish sausage also await. The mercado isn’t licensed to serve alcohol, but for a sense of occasion, make reservations for the $120-per-person tasting menus that Cetina serves only on Thursday and Friday nights. — B.A.

3655 S. GRAND AVE., #C9, LOS ANGELES, (213) 986-9972 l HOLBOXLA.COM