Yasuhiro Hirano’s iwashi maki resembles a pane of stained glass, a small round neatly divided into sections of silvery sardine with a shiso-wrapped square of green chives and yellow ginger in the center. It’s one of the opening bites of his omakase, equal parts whimsical and technically precise. He soaks komochi konbu (herring eggs on kelp) in dashi for days, leaving each tiny orb bursting with the smoky, marine taste of his stock. Hirano’s shari has a pleasant sharpness (he uses two types of red vinegar to season the rice). His unfussy ingenuity is on full display in a tiny dab of “guts sauce” over a slice of raw sanma. Made from cooking down pike mackerel innards with soy sauce, its bitter, livery smack is unparalleled. The eight-seat counter, hidden within the larger I-naba restaurant, has the austerity of a traditional Japanese space. Hirano’s demeanor may appear to match the surroundings, until he opens his mouth. He’s quick to tell you that your hat is cool. If you’re lucky, he’ll bring out his guitar for a few songs. He does a particularly entertaining rendition of Taylor Swift’s “Shake It Off.” — J.H.

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