Free the shrimp roti from its wrapper and you notice the bundle has been cut in half. Its colors and patterns mesmerize: The flaky folds of paratha seem to barely contain spice-crusted shrimp, a saucy aloo (potato) sofrito, bright green herb-chile sauce and purple veins of turmeric-tinged cabbage slaw. The flavors are as blinding as the colors; crunchy textures bump against smooth ones. Fans of Rashida Holmes’ Caribbean American cooking have waited nearly three years for her pop-up to finally transition to a permanent location. Bridgetown Roti debuted in July in a cheering East Hollywood storefront. She channels the richness of Bajan and Trinidadian cultures in delicate cod fish cakes dabbed with garlic aioli, callaloo simmered to melting surrender in coconut broth with peppers and her inimitable savory patties (curried oxtail for the win). Oh, and hands down the creamiest, crustiest, most superlative baked macaroni and cheese in L.A. — B.A.

858 N. VERMONT AVE., LOS ANGELES, (747) 221-9026 l BRIDGETOWNROTI.COM