Orange County’s Little Saigon, home to one of the U.S.’ largest Vietnamese populations, has enough culinary density for its own edition of 101 Best Restaurants. Previous recommendations include Brodard Chateau, with its nem nuong wraps and sweeping menu; Pho 79, where oxtail is a coveted addition to the spiced broth; and Ngu Binh, serving dishes from Thua Thien Hue, a province famous for its royal cuisine, including bánh ít kep bánh ram (two-tiered dump-lings of glutinous rice dough with shrimp and pork, set on discs of lacy fried dough).

Another for the short list: Hu Tieu De Nhat, a nine-table storefront in Garden Grove’s Koreatown community. The specialty is hu tieu, a noodle soup vital to Saigon’s street-food culture that distills Chinese, Vietnamese and Cambodian influences. Concentrate on the “Nam Vang” section of the menu, choosing from egg, rice or “glass” noodles made from potato starch. Order them in combinations to accentuate the bouncy, squiggly contrasts. Bowls arrive arrayed with shrimp, pork belly, ground pork, fishcake and quail eggs. “Soup or dry?” the server asks. If there are two of you, try one of each.Take a minute to tune your seasonings; the tastes and textures are symphonic. — B.A.

9972 GARDEN GROVE BLVD., SUITE F, GARDEN GROVE, (714) 591-5113 l INSTAGRAM.COM/HUTIEUDENHAT

Hu Tieu De Nhat’s specialty is hu tieu, a popular Saigon street food.