Adham Kamal, raised in As-Suwayda (sometimes also spelled Sweida) in southwestern Syria, brings to Los Angeles the surprisingly delicate, deep-down-marinated shawarma he learned to make as a teenager. He now operates in four locations: Sherman Oaks, Pasadena, Anaheim and the first local stand he ran near the corner of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, then called Hollywood Shawarma. The menu at his operations comes down to two choices: spiced lamb and beef, referred to as lahme (meat) in Arabic, or lemony chicken, called djej. Each has a traditional sauce: tahini-based tarator for lahme, toum (whipped garlic paste) for djej. The hardest decisions concern size and form. There are three options: a handheld stuffed pita or 12- and 24-inch versions, made using flour tortillas, that come with fries. Think small is my advice, and ask for the wrap to be rolled using only one round side of a pita. It’s about proportions. A shawarma wrap is not a burrito. It is meant to be compact and intense. A crowning touch: Kamal and his staff finish them on the griddle, searing every angle until they’re browned and crackling. — B.A.

14518 VENTURA BLVD., SHERMAN OAKS, (202) 963-0675, AND OTHER LOCATIONS l INSTAGRAM.COM/SINCERELY_SYRIA