Angelenos are fickle creatures. Restaurants from around the world have attempted moves here, only to find that we’re unfazed by their popularity elsewhere. Mr. T, the two-year-old location of that Paris bistro, has carved a niche in the buzzy Sycamore District. At the bottom of the glass tower that houses Jay-Z’s Roc Nation, smartly dressed patrons flood the patio at breakfast and lunch. An impressive case boasts François Daubinet’s pastries. You can taste the butter in his croissants. A few of the Paris restaurant’s dishes appear at dinner, like the mac and cheese with mimolette flambé set aflame at the table, but chef Alisa Vannah, previously at République, has made the restaurant her own. Vannah’s cooking is a quiet luxury, demure but powerful in its intention and flavors. Mackerel and yellowtail are dressed in a tomato water seasoned like dashi, with bonito, white soy and a shiver of yuzu. Lumpia are plump with chicken and shrimp. Daubinet’s custard is nearly deliquescent, flooded with the tang of passion fruit. Chocolate mousse is rich and fleeting, impossibly smooth before it vanishes on the tongue. — J.H.

953 N. SYCAMORE AVE., LOS ANGELES, (310) 953-4934 l MRTRESTAURANTS.COM