“ACCESSIBLE” can be an overused and twisty word in food writing, but in its most basic definition it aptly describes the new Mid-City restaurant from Niki Nakayama and her wife, Carole Iida-Nakayama. While their tiny flagship n/naka never stops showing up on listicles about the world’s hardest reservations, at n/soto prime-time seating can be secured by planning only a week out, sometimes less. Its izakaya model — small to midsize plates that incorporate myriad culinary techniques, matched with a thoughtful beverage program — is familiar as a universal template for dining in Los Angeles. The couple knew they’d need to give n/naka their nightly attention, so Yoji Tajima, whose Beverly Hills sushi restaurant Yojisan closed in 2020, leads n/soto’s kitchen. Among the 50-plus items on the menu, much of it micro-seasonal and changing by the week if not the day, look for a constant: a bowl of freshly made oboro tofu. The soothing, savory custard seasoned with tosa joyu, a soy-based sauce enriched with shaved bonito, sets the mood for the sculptural plates of sashimi, smoky chicken thigh skewers and the exceptional shrimp-stuffed agedashi mochi ahead.

• 4566 W. Washington Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 879-9455, n-soto.com