Condensing the scope of Aaron Lindell and Hannah Ziskin’s unbridled artistry to “pizza” and “cake,” respectively, was probably always reductive. It was the easiest way to define the couple’s three-year-old Echo Park restaurant, a union of their talents hatched as a pandemic pop-up. Their chosen media are infinitely adaptable — to seasons, curiosities and the freedom of imaginations. Lindell might pave a rectangular Detroit-style pizza with potatoes, olives, pistachios, cured lemon slices, mozzarella and Pecorino. On Wednesdays and Sundays he often bakes round, thin, charry-edged bar pies; my summer is not complete without one crowned with Jimmy Nardello peppers and sausage. Ziskin still serves her now-famous spin on princess cake, but she’s also returning to the plated desserts of her days as an upscale-restaurant pastry chef. Mission fig semifreddo scented with sherry and fig leaf and garnished with candied walnuts? A big holy yes. She also makes the just-salty-enough feta for a warm, brothy bean salad: It’s a headliner for an increasingly lengthy list of appetizers on the dinein menu. Quarter Sheets now accepts reservations this year for the tiny, scruffy-chic dining room, and they tend to book fast. Persevere, or wait in line for a walk-in table at the best pizzeria-that’s-more-than-a-pizzeria in Los Angeles. — B.A.

1305 PORTIA ST., LOS ANGELES l QUARTERSHEETSPIZZA.COM