It doesn’t matter if you’ve sampled the best barbecue in central Texas, enjoy debating the techniques of pitmasters or have read every Aaron Franklin book. There’s no denying that Moo’s Craft Barbecue is excellent barbecue, with a style that’s distinctly of Los Angeles. I’ve been following Michelle and Andrew Muñoz since they started a pop-up in their East L.A. backyard in 2017. The bark on Andrew’s brisket is as black as night, encrusted in a deluge of pepper. It jiggles like a pop star and has the smoky, meaty punch of good pastrami. His pulled pork is soft and supple, with a winning ratio of fat to meat and a slight vinegar tang. Michelle cleverly infuses a SoCal spirit into snappy sausage links engorged with queso Oaxaca and roasted poblanos, plus pork belly burnt ends sticky with a Korean barbecue-inspired glaze. Most tables at the couple’s Lincoln Heights restaurant overflow with platters of brisket and ribs, but make sure there’s at least one burger in the mix. The jumbo beef patty is tinged with smoke and encased in a black pepper crust with a blanket of American cheese and just the right amount of sliced white onion. — J.H.

2118 N. BROADWAY, LOS ANGELES, (323) 686-4133 l MOOSCRAFTBARBECUE.COM