Evan Funke’s trilevel Beverly Hills restaurant is a temple of pasta, in very much the same vein as his Felix and Mother Wolf. But the eponymous restaurant may be the most theatrical of the three, with a sprawling open kitchen and pasta laboratorio on one level, a second dining room and a rooftop bar. More than a year in, reservations are still notoriously difficult to procure and the clientele no less stylish or connected. I almost take the pastas for granted, knowing the tomato and chile in the arrabbiata will reach a luscious harmony between the strands of al dente spaghetti. I’m always wowed by the sfincione palermitano, the round of dough painted with a jammy tomato and onion sauce, then dressed with a racy cheese, wild oregano and breadcrumbs. It starts off crisp, then fades into an airy pillow. And the prime rib-eye cap, well crusted and served alongside crispy potatoes, may be the most satisfying meat-and-potatoes dish in the city. Dinner is the antithesis of light, but save room for one of Shannon Swindle’s desserts. The seasonal crostata is always worth it. —J.H.

9388 S. SANTA MONICA BLVD., BEVERLY HILLS, (424) 279-9796 l FUNKELA.COM