Mélisse chef-owner Josiah Citrin once described his restaurant as “classic fine dining,” a term one might associate with a stuffy Eurocentric meal that lasts hours and can cost a month’s rent. Now in its 25th year, Mélisse is a jewel box within his larger Citrin restaurant, 14 cozy seats opposite an open kitchen. What he and chef-partner Ken Takayama and head sommelier Maja Kuemmerle are engineering is more a splendid extravagance that pushes the boundaries of anything remotely classic or rigid. A quenelle of strawberry sorbet floats in the center of lush orange tomato soup. Clear noodles fashioned from tomato consommé are chewy and a joy to eat. The lamb course is presented as both a textbook perfect herb-crusted chop and the filling for a fried spring roll with a bright cilantro and mint emulsion. To operate a restaurant in Los Angeles for 25 years is remarkable. Yet this is a team that’s still ambitiously reaching forward, and we’re eager to see where they take it next. — J.H.

1104 WILSHIRE BLVD., SANTA MONICA, (310) 395-0881 l CITRINANDMELISSE.COM