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A combo plate with chicken lule, pork tenderloin, chicken thigh shish kebab and beef cutlet, with hummus and rice.

I don’t know that I’ve had a juicier piece of chicken kebab, a more succulent beef cutlet or a more precisely seasoned lule than what I’ve eaten out of the takeout containers at Mini Kabob. What the Martirosyan family is preparing out of their itty-bitty storefront in Glendale should be classified as meat magic. They grind chicken and beef on the premises and incorporate just enough fat that the juicy lule kebabs succumb to the slightest touch of a fork. The lamb chops are plump, tender and kissed with smoke. The beef cutlets are loosely packed with fresh herbs, hand-formed, then seared in a pan until a deep brown crust forms around the patties. Each plate comes with hummus, a mountain of rice and a few grilled jalapeños and tomatoes with their skins blistered and blackened. I’ve eaten the kebabs in my car parked down the road, and countless times at home. Showing up at a friend’s house with bags of food from Mini Kabob is one of the greatest expressions of love in L.A. Make sure there’s plenty of garlic sauce, the smooth paste capable of perfuming your entire body and clothing for the rest of the day. — J.H.

313 ½ VINE ST., GLENDALE, (818) 244-1343 l MINI-KABOB.COM

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