Kisen, tucked into the corner of a crowded Arcadia strip mall, feels like two restaurants in one. The main dining area is a raucous room where you can order grilled chicken and plates of vegetable tempura for the kids who can’t seem to stay in their seats and cucumber rolls for your sister who doesn’t eat raw fish. The sushi bar is a serene omakase experience where the chef will design a personalized procession of nigiri and small bites based on your appetite and penchant for stronger or milder fish. It’s on par with some of the most compelling sushi bars in the city, without the sticker shock at the end. I like sitting at the bar during lunch, where I can marvel at how the chefs manage overflowing bowls of chirashi for the dining room while simultaneously creating a semblance of calm, focused attention for patrons at the bar. My chef nods approvingly when I tell him I favor kohada, sardines and all kinds of mackerel. He rewards me with a Japanese sardine scored with a million knife cuts, which melts on my tongue, and a slab of silver-skinned kohada tucked into a sleeve of crisp seaweed. I appreciate the excellence without a smidge of stuffiness. — J.H.

1108 S. BALDWIN AVE., #B6, ARCADIA, (626) 623-6033 l SUSHIKISEN.COM

Glass shrimp could be on the omakase menu, depending on the season and your preference.