Chelou is a French word that various translation apps interpret as “weird,” “strange,” “unexpected” or “dodgy.” You get the idea. One might occasionally apply such an adjective to Douglas Rankin’s modernist plates. In his hands a pile of sinewy lamb ribs, for example, arrives dotted with buck-wheat groats and tiny edible flowers — a curious (and also delicious) floral arrangement. But mostly I’d just say the man excels at flavor combinations. Dill and bottarga blast awake the flavors in a brothy bowl of shelling beans. Shredded carrots anchor a salad pooled in coconut-ginger dressing with lime leaf and scattered Thai basil … but then Rankin piles on a maniacal hill of potato sticks. A signature rainbow trout entree is presented sauced in twinned nouvelle cuisine squiggles of garlic-chive oil and pil pil and served over rice pilaf caramelized in corn juice to achieve a ragged sort of crispness. Housed in the 99-year-old Spanish Colonial Revival complex of the Pasadena Playhouse, Bar Chelou inhabits its name with a central oval bar and a louche, dimly lit vibe to the open dining room. Cocktails laced with absinthe or yellow Chartreuse feel wholly appropriate. — B.A.

37 S. EL MOLINO AVE., PASADENA, (626) 808-4976 l BARCHELOU.COM