The most compelling plate of vegetables in L.A. may be the antipasto platter at Chris Bianco’s pizzeria. He has a hands-off approach to our local produce: “You just need to not screw it up.” A recent platter showed off baby squash halved and caramelized in the oven until the bitter skins turned sweet; blistered Romano beans from Harry’s Berries; Hypha Farms king trumpet mushrooms as meaty and tender as a steak; and garlic-strewn chunks of Weiser Family Farms potatoes. It’s a mandatory precursor to the pizza that follows. Bianco changed the way America thinks about pizza when he started Pizzeria Bianco in 1988 out of a grocery store in Phoenix. He applies that same don’t-screw-it-up approach to pizza, with a golden, nutty crust that cracks when you fold it but still has a nice chew. The Rosa is the one I can’t quit: a sprinkling of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely shaved ribbons of red onion, fresh rosemary, crushed and roasted pistachios. It just works. — J.H.

1320 E. 7TH ST., #100, LOS ANGELES, (213) 372-5155 l PIZZERIABIANCO.COM/LOS-ANGELES