Seafood-centric restaurants with raw bars aren’t quite the anomaly they once were in Los Angeles, but a meal at Ari Kolender’s petite Found Oyster remains unparalleled. Opened just before the pandemic, it’s a narrow slice of New England in East Hollywood, next to a vegan grocery store and just down the street from the Church of Scientology’s big blue building. Parking is rarely easy, and it’s likely there will be a wait for a seat, but a chilled glass of wine helps pass the time and you’ll be handsomely rewarded for your efforts. The seafood platters are grand and inviting, with a lower tier of oysters fanned out on crushed ice with a plate of the day’s crudo in the center. The top layer is crowded with crab cocktail, Ritz crackers and peel-and-eat prawns rubbed with enough spices to stain your fingers red. I make dining companions order their own scallop tostada, greedy for my own bubbly fried shell covered in sweet scallop, tart yuzu and fragrant basil. The lobster bisque roll is as advertised, brimming with chunks of lobster. And I don’t think I’ve ever skipped the wedge salad. But I always make room for a few of the specials scribbled on the chalkboard out front. Fried spot prawn heads with togarashi? A Caesar schnitzel sandwich? Grilled salmon collar with espelette butter? Yes, please. — J.H.

4880 FOUNTAIN AVE., LOS ANGELES, (323) 522-6239 l FOUNDOYSTER.COM