The nearly 100-item menu at Bhookhe, as with many other Indian restaurants along Pioneer Boulevard in Artesia, veers through some of the subcontinent’s most popular categories: pan-regional snacks; curries, including a smattering of North Indian classics like palak paneer; and Indian Chinese favorites such as tangy-sweet gobi Manchurian. Zero in on the vegetarian maharaja thali, though, as an immersion into the flavors of Rajasthan, where chef Pooja Dwivedi and her co-owner husband, Anshul, were raised. Where to start, among the tray’s nearly two dozen components? Point your spoon toward gatte ki sabji, soft squares of chickpea dumplings submerged in a yogurt sauce so finely spiced you’ll drink it like a lassi. Then graze through half a dozen small breads made from different flours (cornmeal and pearl millet among them), ideal for dunking in warm ghee or soupy dal. Garlicky chutney, tense with kachri, a tiny, wild melon, and green chile pickle ignite forkfuls of rice. The kitchen frequently changes up dishes on the maharaja thali, particularly seasonal vegetables, to pique the interest of return customers. There are a lot of us. — B.A.

18633 PIONEER BLVD., ARTESIA, (562) 523-0589 l BHOOKHE.COM

The maharaja thali has many components, and the kitchen often changes them up, particularly the seasonal vegetables.