King crab monaka, top; udon and mussels with crème fraîche, garlic and bacon, left.

While securing reservations at Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama’s kaiseki showcase n/naka remains one of the toughest feats in the known universe, their Mid-City izakaya led by head chef Yoji Tajima slips far more quietly under the radar. Ease in with a plate of crudités alongside mochi flatbread (crisp but also enticingly elastic) and a smoky eggplant dip that calls to mind Persian kashke bademjan. A warm, gingery bowl of just-set tofu settles the senses. In the summer, look for cooling creations like King crab meat and uni dolloped with avocado dressing in an edible cup made of rice flour. Chillier nights call for mussels tangled in garlicky udon with crème fraîche and bacon. Skip the sushi for a donabe full of impeccably steamed rice and changing options such as autumnal mushrooms or soft-boiled egg and chicken thigh. In the spirit of izakaya, the beverage program is full of smart options that the staff can discuss in depth. Lead bartender Reed Windle, in particular, devises intricate cocktails that marry the Japanese-California ethos, driven by fruits and spices: Check out his Time Goes So Fast, which whirls together rye, anise hyssop, herbal Benedictine, aged sake and sake vermouth. — B.A.

4566 W. WASHINGTON BLVD., LOS ANGELES, (323) 879-9455 l N-SOTO.COM