The dining room here, with its curved columns, soft light and plush purple banquettes, is an opulent cocoon in the retail maze that is South Coast Plaza. Yassmin Sarmadi and Tony Esnault’s restaurant is tucked into the Penthouse, with high-fashion neighbors that mirror its luxury. Esnault cooked in fine-dining restaurants in France before leading kitchens in New York and L.A. He imparts a distinctly French sensibility to seasonal four- and six-course dinners, a three-course lunch and Saturday afternoon tea. Pearl barley mimics risotto under a sunflower foam with chanterelles. A sliver of duck breast, its skin still crisp, is plated just so in a small pool of duck jus alongside enough charred corn relish to provide the exact number of perfect bites. Esnault’s greatest triumph may be the légumes de saison, from his vegetable-forward Flora menu. Radish, snap peas, orange and purple carrot, green onion, celery and broccolini are individually roasted, braised, steamed or left raw to coax out the purest flavors. This is food as art, thoughtful, executed with precision and a pleasure to eat. — J.H.

3333 BRISTOL ST., SUITE 3001, COSTA MESA, (714) 266-3388 l KNIFEPLEAT.COM