When Katianna and John Hong opened their Arts District restaurant, it had the restless spirit of a wild child, ever-evolving and experiential. It was partly due to the nature of the couple’s cooking, drawing heavily from their Korean American backgrounds while weaving in the Jewish influences of both their childhoods. There was a deli case and market in addition to the dining room. It must have been a logistical nightmare to pull off, but I miss the frenetic energy that sparked whenever I shared a dinner with friends. Now, the dining room feels more formal and darker — a grown-up version of the Yangban I used to know. Many dishes still crackle with that original magic, like the twice-fried chicken wings, sticky with soy-garlic glaze, the mandu plump with matzoh ball filling or the avocado and pear salad with nostril-singeing mustard vinaigrette, now a small banchan offering. A series of newer small bites, such as the acorn beignet topped with a slice of Benton’s ham, feels more in line with the couple’s time cooking at fine-dining restaurant Mélisse in Santa Monica. Yangban is still evolving; I’m looking forward to following along. — J.H.

712 S. SANTA FE AVE., LOS ANGELES, (213) 866-1987 l YANGBANLA.COM