The first time I had Japanese-style Neapolitan pizza was at a tiny pizzeria in the Shibuya district of Tokyo. The pizza seemed suspended in a pillow of crust, leopard-spotted like something you might find in Naples but puffier and reminiscent of fresh mochi. What William Joo is making at his Pico-Robertson pizzeria is a nod to what you’ll find in both Japan and Italy, but with a style all his own. While the most traditional Neapolitan pies are wet in the middle, Joo’s pinched, puffy crusts careen into centers that are damp but don’t collapse under the toppings. The Margherita Special showcases ultra-milky buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes left chunky for nice globs of acid. Another frequent special is the Mala Lamb Sausage, a smoky, savory pizza tricked out with pecorino and smoked provola, crumbles of cumin-spiked lamb sausage and cilantro flowers. The mala spice powder scattered over the crust will leave your lips tingling. Seats at Joo’s monthly pizza omakase dinners sell out in a flash, so if eight to 10 courses of pizza sounds like your idea of a good time, follow the business on Instagram to learn when new dates will be announced. — J.H.

8781 W. PICO BLVD., LOS ANGELES, (424) 279-9800 l PIZZERIASEI.COM

The Margherita Special uses buffalo mozzarella and chunky tomatoes.