The Filipino restaurant and natural wine bar run by Chase Valencia, wife Steff Barros Valencia and chef Nico de Leon remains centered on two dishes. Inasal, a chicken specialty of the western Visayan Islands in the central Philippines, soaks up a pungent cocktail of lemongrass, ginger, garlic and calamansi juice before being grilled. Pork belly lechon is rolled like porchetta and filled with similar herbs and spices. Lasita bills itself as a rotisserie, though that doesn’t convey the breadth of the cooking. Grilled branzino stuffed with lemongrass and ginger or pork chop with a spicy-sweet barbecue glaze may be on the menu one week; soon they’re replaced by whole dorade in a sweet-and-sour plum sauce. Vegans can feast on a sizzling mushroom variation on the chopped pork dish sisig. Chase looks for high-acid white wines and meant-to-be-served-chilled reds that slice through the salty, garlicky density of the meats. — B.A.

727 N. BROADWAY, #120, LOS ANGELES, (213) 443-6163 l LASITA-LA.COM