Brick-sized Nicaraguan tamales, known as nacatamal, are superior to just about every other steamed leaf- or husk-wrapped tamale. I’m confident that you’ll reach the same conclusion at Las Segovias in Huntington Park. Green olives and raisins peek out from the masa filled with bone-in pork ribs or chops. In the center is a lump of rice, potato and slivers of tomato. All the components, including the pork bones, take on a custardy texture and the bittersweet taste of sour orange. The quesillo is served in a plastic bag, as it’s sometimes packaged on the streets of Nicaragua. The corn tortilla is thick, almost cake-like, blistered and folded around a blob of soft, mild white cheese and crema that oozes out the back. There are bowls of indio viejo, with strands of shredded beef suspended in a thick, savory gravy, and big platters of grilled meats. The refresco of choice is cacao, a tall glass of milk with crushed cacao beans. “It’s very nice,” my server says, handing me a Big Gulp-sized cup with a straw. Yes, it really is. — J.H.

8014 SEVILLE AVE., HUNTINGTON PARK, (323) 745-1109 l LASSEGOVIASCA.COM