For years, Tokyo Fried Chicken was a tiny operation in a strip mall in Monterey Park. One had to arrive an hour early to get on the waitlist. I had a pinch-me moment last year when Kouji and Elaine Yamanashi closed that location and opened in downtown L.A. with counter service and ample seating. Kouji’s chicken is never changing: giant pieces of bone-in karaage battered and fried like one might find all over the American South. Scabrous and golden, the batter cracks to release the flavors of soy, garlic and ginger emerging in a flood of hot juice. Pieces are served in sets with rice polished with chicken fat, pickles, a side and dipping sauce. I favor the shredded cabbage salad, craving the cool freshness of the cabbage and the ginger tang of the dressing. — J.H.

801 S. OLIVE ST., UNIT C, LOS ANGELES, (213) 278-0458 l TOKYOFRIEDCHICKEN.COM