John Kim, Patrick Liu, Alex Park and Yohan Park wisely decided this year to shut down their “Korean tapas” concept Tokki, in Koreatown’s Chapman Plaza complex, and reconceive it as Danbi. Under chef Lareine Ko, the menu ditched a misguided globalization of Korean flavors in favor of a streamlined collection of dishes that totter more thrillingly between tradition and innovation. Her haemul pajeon showcases tiny fried scallops that crackle against the pancake’s crunch. She pairs pine nut-scattered beef tartare with bone marrow for textural commentary (softly chewy and basically molten) and, for warming balm, fans the thinnest, milkiest slices of pork over rice in rich broth. Ko has a fantastic pastry counterpart in Isabell Manibusan, who has a talent for reimagining Korean staples in a California dessert context. She capped the summer riffing on a popular ice cream bar called Melona in an icy honeydew semifreddo. Locally and nationally we’ve seen an acceleration around notions of modern Korean cuisine. Danbi has plenty to contribute. — B.A.

3465 W. 6TH ST., #90-100, LOS ANGELES, (818) 527-2213 l DANBI-LA.COM